Trade secrets that professional make-up artist learn when at school. These are some of the best tips you will ever get on applying makeup.
Spend some bucks on your tool.
The first lesson you learn is that tools are just as important as product. Improving the quality of your tools improves the application and appearance on your skin. You may be a great artist, but if you have to draw with crayons, it won’t be as good as if you had professional paint and brushes.
Mix your primer with your foundation.
There are three different types of foundation: liquid, powder and cream. To retain the foundation’s coverage without it looking caked on mix your foundation with the primer.
Secret: For oily skin use a sponge to apply foundation. It picks up the pigment, but not the oils.
Secret: For dry skin, use a foundation brush and buff the foundation into the skin. The further you get from the center, the less coverage you want.
Love your flaw–then conceal them.
To cover your blemishes and unwanted color you need opposite colors to cancel them out. So green-pigmented concealers cover redness, and orange concealer removes blue. If you use beige concealer, it just makes your skin look muddy.
Fix your face shape.
Contouring is the art of highlighting and shading.
If you have a round face and want to make it look more oval: Apply a bronzer a shade or two darker than your skin tone in a “3” shape alongside your face: on your temples, the hollow of your cheeks, and your chin.
If you have a prominent forehead: Shade around the outer edge of your forehead along your hairline to minimize the area with bronzer.
If you have a flat or wide nose: Shade alongside your bridge starting from your inner brows. Then highlight right on the center of your nose.
If gravity is taking a toll and your cheeks are sagging: Apply a highlighter just above your cheekbone all the way to your temple. Use a blush directly on the cheekbone, then use a bronzer in the hollow of the cheek, underneath your bone.
Make your eyes pop by changing their shape.
Whether you have drooping lids, narrow-set eyes, or they’re simply too small, you can use your knowledge of light and shadow to change them.
If you want to add definition: Sweep a light bronzer through the crease of the eye, which is halfway between the lashline and the eyebrow.
If you have narrow-set eyes: To elongate your eye width, apply a black liner to the outer half of both your upper and lower lashlines, connecting at the outer corner.
If you have drooping, heavy lids: Use what you just learned about highlights and shadows to lift your eye. Apply highlighter above your crease, from the inner to outer lid. Then blend a shadow to the area that you want to push back, which would be the heavy fold. Make sure to blend the edges from the shadow to the highlight.
If you have small eyes: Apply a beige-colored eyeliner to your lower inner rim, which will help make eyes look more open. Then use a black pencil liner along your entire upper and lower lashlines, connecting the lines at the outer corner. The key is to blend the liner with shadow, going outwards. Wherever you place the darkness is where your eye will go, so by smudging the lines, it gives the allusion that your eyes are taking up more real estate on your face.
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Think opposites when it comes to color.
For blue eyes: Since orange is the opposite color of blue, anything with orange in it will make blue eyes stand out more. It doesn’t have to be a blazing sun color — it just has to have orangey undertones like gold, apricot, or peach.
For green eyes: Red is the opposite color of green, which isn’t to say you should apply a cherry red-colored eyeshadow to your lids. But you’ll help your green eyes pop if you use colors that have red undertones, like deep plums and wine.
For brown eyes: Brown is a neutral color, so any color will work well, but the most standout colors are blue and purple.
Stop applying eyeliner the wrong way.
You’re actually not supposed to draw your liner all the way across your lashline in one motion. “You’ll get bumps in your line with your brush catching on loose skin,” says Prior. Instead, you’re supposed to go from the inner corner to the center of your lid, then reload the brush (if you’re using one) and start from the outside corner until you meet the existing liner.
Make fake brow hairs look real.
Some of us like to draw on our eye brows, while others prefer a more real look. If you prefer a more real look, this tip is for you.
Pick a color a couple shades lighter than your actual hair.
If you’re using a pencil: For a realistic look, apply more pressure at the bottom of the stroke where the root would be. Ease off on the pressure as you flick your stroke upward, using small strokes to make it most look like hair.
If you’re using a powder: Brush the powder starting from the outer corner of your brow and work against the direction of your hair growth. This ensures a more natural finish by allowing the brow hair to sit over the powder, so that your brows don’t look drawn in.
Know how to conceal under-circle eyes.
The Napoleon Perdis Paparazzi Makeup To-Go class teaches how to remove under-eye circles with the “Hollywood V.” With your concealer brush, swipe the color-correcting concealer under your eye in a “V” shape from your outer to inner corner. Then, buff the concealer into your skin, until you get to the center of your lower lid, where you’ll want to feather the concealer for a lighter application.
While it seems like a lot of work, customizing a color-correcting mixture made especially for your skin tone can actually erase stubborn bags instead of highlighting them.